Your Guide to Derry and Beyond
Derry is a city that holds grief and grace in equal measure. Walled, wounded, and wondrous, she wears her history not as a burden, but as a second skin – visible, tactile, and deeply alive.
You’ll feel it in the sound of footsteps on stone, the echoes in the cathedrals, and the paint peeling off the murals that remember to resist. And, yet, she still knows how to laugh. In fact, the people of Derry are its greatest treasure. They’re full of soul, humor, and hospitality that knocks you sideways with sincerity.
To walk through Derry is to move through layers of struggle and survival. The River Foyle splits Derry in two, but nothing about this city feels divided. Instead, you’ll feel drawn in by her poetry and pride. She’s both the singer and the song, the monument and the street corner storyteller.
When you leave, you’ll carry her with you. Let this not just be your guide through Derry’s streets, but her spirit. And, when we’re through, we’ll venture along the coastline to places where stone cliffs serenade the sky.
Walk the Walls of Derry
We have to start with the walls. Derry’s 17th-century walls wrap around the old city like a memory. They’re just under a mile, and have seen sieges, parades, and peace marches alike.
These are the only completely intact city walls in Ireland. And they’re not just relics; they’re part of everyday life. Locals stroll them on lunch breaks. Children peer over their edges. Artists paint from them. As you wander, you’ll see people sketching rooftops spilling into the River Foyle, spires rising into mist, and the countryside blooming in the distance.
To start, enter at Butcher Gate and follow the circuit clockwise. Along the way, you’ll pass the sturdy towers of St. Columb’s Cathedral and catch glimpses of the Bogside murals below. When you’re through, stop into The Walled City Brewery for a pint and a hearty lunch in a cozy, red-brick setting.
Explore the Bogside Murals
The Bogside is a living, breathing monument to resilience. Here, towering murals turn the walls of homes into canvases of conscience. Painted by The Bogside Artists, the “People’s Gallery” tells the story of civil rights marches, Bloody Sunday, and the quiet strength of a community that never stopped standing up.
Take your time here. The images are powerful, haunting, and deeply human. If you want to understand Derry, you must look her past in the eye. For deeper insights, join a walking tour with Free Derry Tours. It’s led by folks whose families have lived through the Troubles. Then, enjoy a moment’s rest at The Pickled Duck Café with a good cup of coffee and a homemade traybake in hand.
Visit the Museum of Free Derry
Tucked just beside the Bogside murals, the Museum of Free Derry offers an intimate, unflinching look into the events that shaped modern Derry. It’s not a museum of distant history; it’s very personal. Objects on display were donated by families. The stories etched into the walls are raw and real. You might leave with a heavy heart, but you’ll also have a deeper understanding of what this city has overcome.
And don’t rush. Let the weight of the walls settle. Then, step back into the light, cross over to Foyle Books on Shipquay Street, and pick up a title by local authors or Irish historians. Sometimes, reading is the gentlest way to continue the conversation the city has started.
Climb to the Tower Museum
For a panoramic view of past and present, the Tower Museum delivers. Perched within the city walls, it chronicles everything from the Spanish Armada to the story of Derry itself. The museum’s standout feature is its rooftop viewing platform. When you step outside, you’ll see the rooftops, the Foyle, and the sweep of Donegal’s hills in the distance.
Inside, the exhibitions strike a balance between personal and political, showcasing artifacts, models, and multimedia installations. When you’re through, wander down to Yellow Yard, a creative space filled with vintage finds, vinyl, and art. It sort of feels like it belongs in Brooklyn, but it’s all Derry all the way through.